Vibram XS Edge (women’s: Vibram XS Grip 2)
Both versatile and high performance. This shoe pretty much does it all.
Shape and fit won’t work for everyone.
Miura VS Miura VS is a time-tested classic made by La Sportiva, offering impressive performance levels on a variety of terrain. The slender and aggressive shoe is most well-known for its ability to snag tiny edges. It is a favorite for climbers who use it for climbing on steep rocks climbing, technical sport climbs and trad routes that are vertically granite as well. We tested both the men’s and women’s versions Miura VS, and below we discuss the shoes’ performance, the sensitivity and shape as well as its construction, durability size and fit, and much more. To find out what it compares to other climbing shoes, the Miura VS stacks up against the other models, check out our review of the most comfortable climbers’ shoes.
The Climb in Miura Climbing System in the Miura
It is the La Sportiva Miura VS is known for its exceptional edging skills that shined in a significant way during our test. Let me start by saying that I’m an intermediate trad climber at heart. I am a fan of lengthy, 5.10 climbs on granite mountains and climbing up crack systems up to the summits and taking in the expansive panoramas of rock ridgelines valleys, tarns and stunningly clean mountain peaks rising over glaciers that lie below. I love my climbing shoes that I can wear throughout the day, and even wear socks.
In the meantime, I’ve been able to spend increasing time, on smaller boulders and walls and have learned to try harder. My crampons for crack climbing aren’t as effective when the rock gets steeper and smaller holds require more precise feet. Then there’s Miura VS. Miura VS. This year I was wearing this shoe when I was climbing in the clipping of bolts, climbing on steep slopes that ranged from climbing the Red River Gorge and the New River Gorge to bouldering in Bishop as well as limestone sport climbing in the vicinity of Vegas and the high cliffs in Rocky Mountain National Park. Although I don’t recommend buying equipment to get stronger however, the Miuras definitely helped me find an entirely new world of trying hard, a realm in which tiny pebbles and micro-edges are now able to provide legitimate platforms for standing.
At Bishop’s Buttermilk boulders, for instance I was standing on small, barely noticeable edges which I’d have hesitated about prior to. I was able to feel like the shoe could absorb all my force and push it straight towards the edge of the toe box. Additionally, the heel hooking feature in this Miura Versatile was an absolute pleasure. I put my shoe on extremely tight, which meant that my heel was safe and my shoe didn’t risk falling off. Additionally, the area of rubber on the inside of the foot is large and thick enough to shield against rocks from all angles.
It’s the Miura VS is not, however, a shoe that is ideal for toe hooking, as it doesn’t have the thick, rubber patch which covers the toebox of several aggressive, specifically designed for bouldering models. If you’re in search of an adrenaline-based shoe consider a different model (both models scarpa instinct as well as La Sportiva Solution would be better choices). In addition, unless you’re making in the Miura VS quite roomy, it’s not the best choice for low-angle climbing, crack climbing smearing or all-day routes. However, keep it in the wheel house (technical vertical or slightly-overhanging terrain) as well it will be fine. Miura VS is as good as it can get.
Form and Sensitivity
Most aggressively downturned shoes are lightweight and flexible, but they’re not like the Miura VS. It is a stiff shoe which allows it to offer amazing edging power when it comes or overhanging ground. A sturdy platform and a downturned, precise foot (similar to the style that is found on the Scarpa Instinct VS) creates the perfect footwear for vertical climbing similar to those is found in Smith Rock. However that it is not the most comfortable shoe for climbing. Miura VS lacks some of the elasticity and sensitivity climbers appreciate for hooking and spreading. If you prefer to climb on rocky terrain or want to for a feeling of the ground in your shoe, think about an easier model such as those from La Sportiva Skwama or Five Ten Hiangle.
The VS’s curve is strengthened with P3 technology by Sportiva. It’s A stiff, rigid randing system that holds the intense downward turn for the duration of the shoe. It assists in transferring your foot’s power into the toe. From tuff to granite , to limestone, the brutal downturn let me hook small, steep hold and pull myself up close with the rock. In addition the pointed, symmetrical toe box makes the VS is incredibly stable on pockets like those found in Wild Iris, Wyoming. The overall design and robust design that is Miura VS’s construction and shape Miura VS makes it the perfect shoe to rest on your toes when climbing up rocks that are vertical.
This sole part of Men’s Miura is made of the 4mm of Vibram XS Edge, a tough mix of rubber renowned for its toughness and stiffness. La Sportiva makes their women’s Miura VS with Vibram XS Grip 2 which is a more flexible and consequently less durable –rubber. The idea is that the majority of men are heavier and require more robust platforms (XS Edge) in order to cut strongly. For those who are lighter, XS Grip 2 provides some extra give and therefore, more friction. Most of the time it’s an individual preference. We’ve met numerous males who love the women’s Miura VS due to its more comfortable rubber sole and its more sticky sole. We also know many women who love the firmer edge of the male’s Miura VS.
Building and Durability
Its Miura VS is made with an upper of leather that allows the shoe to stretch and conform to the form the foot. Pull tabs allow you to move the heel as you put it onto your foot and stretch the slingshot rand as if it were the rubber band. When you release the tabs, the heel will snap back in place with ease. For closure the VS comes with three straps Velcro system that allows an easy removal and on and a customized fitting. Like we said earlier the shoe is manufactured with la Sportiva’s technology called P3. abbreviated as Performance Power Platform. It is important to note that P3 allows the shoe to maintain the shape throughout its life and almost every one of La Sportiva’s athletic shoes that are high performance are constructed using this style. Like we’ve come to expect from the Italian firm, the quality of construction is exceptional and the durability is the main feature for Miura VS. Miura VS.
Sizing and Fit
This Miura VS is on the smaller side, so with my feet that are wide I went with the male version with a wider last. I measured my VS by a half size from my normal shoes (I wear sizes of 38.5 with the TC Pro, 40 in La Sportiva approach shoes, and 38 in the Miura VS) and went through an unpleasant break-in phase before the shoes were stretched enough to feel comfortable climbing. However on hot days, as my feet expanded in size I noticed my Miura VS to be quite painful. Therefore it is likely that the Miura VS likely will not be suitable for climbers with large feet. In the same way, since La Sportiva is making the more durable Otaki Miura, the Miura has been almost gone from my arsenal.
We also tried our female variant of the Miura VS on a climber with feet that were normal in width. Fit was not a concern for her, though she did admit that while trying on the shoe in the shop, it felt bit aggressive, and it was particularly sunk in her Achilles. But, it eased after a few hours of wearing as well as some stretching.
Miura VS Miura VS is designed to be tightly sized for maximum performance, but isn’t designed to be worn all day. At first I shook my head each when I put the shoe on. Pulling the rand across my heel felt like an exercise in suctioning. The shoes work like an ointment. If you’re looking for the best performance, then you’ll be able to take your shoes off every time you do burns. Because of the tight fit there’s no way that I’d ever want to climb a either a crack or slab within the Miura VS. It would be painful. Although you can make them sufficiently large to be able to traverse these types of terrain but you’ll lose performance when you’re on smaller edges or on steeper terrain that’s what the shoe was made for.
An interesting fact to be noted is that with time it has been observed that it has been observed that the Miura VS has a tendency to form a callus on the big toes that many mountaineers. This callus is so commonplace that it’s been dubbed”the “Miura bump.” While it’s not specific with the Miura VS It’s amazing how many people who have had the bump that is associated with the shoe in question. The good thing is that it’s not painful and will fade in time (if you don’t wear Miura VS). Miura V). However, consider this to be your warning.
In for this evaluation, the main test subject was a woman who was wearing the male Miura VS version. Her large feet were more easily accommodated by the shoes for men. La Sportiva also makes a women’s version of the Miura VS, a slightly slimmer shoe that comes in a different colorway that we also tried. The biggest difference between the two is the sole. The male version is made with Vibram XS Edge rubber, while the women’s version is made of Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber (see the rubber section for more information).
Miura Vs. Miura Lace
To make clear one crucial aspect The Miura VS is a very distinct shoe from Miura Lace. Miura Lace. They’re made from the same sole, however, in the majority of cases they are not identical. The VS is more rigid and aggressive, and is designed to be a tight fit and maintain its shape for the duration of its life. This is mostly because of the P3 system. It is a method of randing which La Sportiva uses on all of their models that are aggressive that include those like the Solution as well as the Testarossa. Miura Lace Miura Lace, on the contrary, does not have the same rigid shape-holding system, and consequently, will become flat and in softness as time passes. Most climbers can fit the Lace fairly comfortably and utilize it for anything from challenging climbs on cracks (the pointy toebox can be used for finger fractures) to slabs, and lengthy multi-pitch excursions.
What We Love
- The most comfortable edging shoe in the market Hands down.
- A versatile, high-performance , multi-purpose shoe. The downturn and edging capabilities make it an excellent all-rounder for sport climbing and boulders.
- There is a men’s as well as a women’s version you can choose to adjust your fit/rubber preferences.
The Things We Do Not
- This shoe isn’t comfortable for large foot (like those of us).
- If you typically climbing or bouldering on slopes, you might be interested in a soft shoe with more rubber in the foot box.
- A lot of people get bumps on their large toes from wearing the shoes. It’s become so widespread that it’s been called”Miura bump. “Miura bump.”
|La Sportiva Miura VS||$185||Extreme||Leather||Vibram XS Edge/Grip 2. (4mm)||Velcro|
|La Sportiva Otaki||$180||Moderate||Leather/Synthetic||Vibram XS Edge/Grip 2. (4mm)||Velcro|
|Five Ten Anasazi Lace||$150||Moderate||Synthetic||Stealth C4 (4.2mm)||Lace|
|Butora Acro||$160||Agressive||Leather/Synthetic||NEO Fuse||Slipper/Velcro|
|Scarpa Instinct VS||$185||Moderate||Synthetic||Vibram XS Edge (3.5mm)||Slipper/Velcro|
Its La Sportiva Miura VS ($185) isn’t for everyone, but if this shoe is comfortable, you’ll wear it for many years to be. We believe it’s one of the best edging shoes on the market. However, if you find the fit too narrow, La Sportiva’s new Otaki ($180) is more spacious, with a slightly less rigid cousin to Miura VS. Miura VS, but overall is very similar. As someone with a broad foot, I really wanted an alternative to the Miura VS to work for my needs, I’m happy to see the introduction of the Otaki to the La Sportiva lineup.
Many people use Miura VS shoes. Miura VS for certain styles of technical trad climbing however, it’s not the best solution. It’s hard, it doesn’t smear, or crack well on climbs and isn’t designed to provide all-day comfort. For an equally high-performing edge shoe that is more at home on trad climbing The Anasazi Lace (aka the “Pinks”) ($150) is a less aggressive and more comfortable alternative (for more details, check out our deep evaluation). If you’re a fan of La Sportiva, their Katana and TC Pro are great choices for all-day climbing on both vertical or slabby terrain. With both, you can expect greater comfort and support, but less precision in general.
Some sport climbers and boulderers will be happy using Miura VS for sport climbers and boulderers. Miura VS, but others might prefer a shoe that has the softest construction as well as more rubber at the heel and the toe for hooking. La Sportiva’s solution ($180) is essentially an a bit smaller-volume soft shoe with big rubber patches. It is constructed on the same model but made using Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber. In addition there is there’s the Butora Acro ($160) is a great and budget-friendly alternative. Similar to the Solution it has similar power similar to Miura VS. Miura VS, but is specifically designed for climbing steep slopes. We’ve been very impressed with this particular shoe, however, we prefer it for slightly high-altitude terrain to extremely steep ones (to learn more, check out our detailed Review of the Acro).
Not to be left out last, we’ll discuss this shoe: the The Scarpa Instinct VVS. Similar to similar to the Miura VS, this shoe is more rigid and less twisted than the majority of bouldering shoes, that makes it more effective for edging the vertical surface. But, thanks to the softer XS Grip 2 rubber in the heel, a more flexible midsole, as well as rubber on the heel and toe that allow for secure hooking you will get excellent performance when climbing steeply and bouldering. Overall this Instinct VS is even more adaptable in comparison to it’s predecessor, the Miura VS, adept on anything from vertical to overhanging terrain. But, we’ll opt for La Sportiva La Sportiva when we want the most supportive and stiff shoe designed for precise edging.